This is the toughest of the coastal path stages near Girvan and the most atmospheric. Six and a half miles from Ballantrae to Lendalfoot, with Ailsa Craig offshore the entire way and a genuine sense of being on a wild edge of the country.
The route
From Ballantrae's old herring harbour the route follows the beach north for about three miles below the raised beach cliffs — the old shoreline from when sea levels were higher, now standing back from the water with the modern beach below it. This is easy going at low tide on firm sand and heavy work at high tide on loose pebbles, which is the single biggest factor in how long this walk takes you.
The path then climbs over Bennane Head, the headland that divides the two villages, with the Sawney Bean caves in the cove of Balcreuchan Port below. The legend of the cannibal clan has almost no historical basis, and we would not recommend attempting the descent to the caves — it is steep and loose, the tide cuts the shore off, and people have needed rescuing from it.
Beyond the headland there is a stretch of roadside verge along the A77 before the path drops back to the shore and runs into Lendalfoot, finishing at the Varyag memorial and its free car park.
What to know
Check the tide. On a rising or high tide the beach section is hard work and parts can be awkward; on a falling tide it is a pleasure. This makes more difference here than on any other local stage.
The roadside section is on a fast road with no pavement, and it is the least pleasant part of the walk. Walk facing traffic, keep well in, and take particular care with children and dogs.
Boots. Pebbles and wet rock, and there is no shelter anywhere on the route. Carry water and food — there is nothing between the two villages.
Getting back
Buses run along the A77 between Ballantrae, Lendalfoot and Girvan, but only every two to three hours — this is the stage where getting the timetable wrong costs you most. Check before you go, and consider walking from Lendalfoot southwards instead if the times suit better.
Parking at The Vennel in Ballantrae and free at the Varyag memorial. See the Ayrshire Coastal Path for the neighbouring stages — Lendalfoot to Girvan continues north over the old coach road.
