Ballantrae sits where the River Stinchar loses itself in a great shingle spit, and it is the last village on the Ayrshire coast before the road turns inland for Cairnryan. It was a herring port and a smugglers' haunt, and it has the slightly closed-in feel of a place that has always looked after itself.
Note for the literary-minded: Stevenson's The Master of Ballantrae takes the name and nothing else — the book is not set here.
Things to see
- Ardstinchar Castle — the ruined Kennedy stronghold on the bluff above the bridge, built in the 1420s by a man who had fought for Joan of Arc. Much of it was reused for the bridge, which is why so little stands. Walk up for the view.
- The Kennedy Aisle — a 17th-century monument with fine carving, attached to the old church.
- The shingle spit and lagoon — a nature reserve at the river mouth, with waders, wildfowl and terns nesting on the open stones. Keep dogs on leads in the breeding season; the eggs sit in scrapes and are effectively invisible.
- Glenapp Castle — the Victorian baronial castle two miles south is a five-star hotel. Non-residents can book lunch, afternoon tea or dinner, and the gardens and the walk down to the shore are part of the experience. Book well ahead.
- Bennane Head — the viewpoint, the cove of Balcreuchan Port and the Sawney Bean caves are two miles north. We would not recommend the descent to the caves: it is steep and loose, the tide cuts the shore off, and people have needed rescuing.
- The Stinchar valley — inland, the road to Colmonell and Barr follows one of the loveliest salmon rivers in the south-west.
Practical notes
The Vennel car park has toilets, picnic tables, a putting green and motorhome bays — one of the few places locally that takes them. The King's Arms does food; check opening.
Buses between Girvan and Stranraer stop in the village, which makes the coastal path walk to Lendalfoot — 6.5 miles, moderate to difficult — workable one way. Buses run only every two to three hours, so check first.
Twelve minutes south of Girvan on the A77.
